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Replacing Laptop Hard Drives - Illustrated how to replace a laptop hard drive

Don't rush into replacing the hard drive before troubleshooting the problem. The first step I take when working on any laptop or notebook computer is to remove the battery. Even if the power button is well protected, like under the closed lid of the screen, it doesn't mean that the power might not come on due to a mechanical jolt or a short when you're working on the innards, so the best bet is to just get the battery out of there.Laptop batteries generally require two actions to remove them. In this case, the lock is on the front edge of the case, and it slides to the side. After the lock is released, the battery slides back just an inch or so to release from the connector, after which it's lifted out and removed.There are two basic scenarios for laptop hard drive replacement, the easy access scenario and thetake the whole laptop apart scenario. This Toshiba notebook is the easy access scenario, at least as far as exposing the drive goes. The hard drive is concealed behind a removable panel on the bottom of the laptop, which is held in place with one long screw.As we lift the lid over the hard drive, you can see the long plastic tube that serves both as a screw guide and as a mechanical support. It should be immediately apparent that the hard drive isn't going anywhere without the cage either being removed first or coming with it.Closer inspection shows that this hard drive mounting system relies on the cage being attached to the hard drive before the hard drive is installed in the laptop. The only things that secures the hard drive and cage in the laptop are the power and data connector on one end, and a spring steel tab on this end. The picture to the left shows how the whole edge of the cage has to be pushed in to get the tab past the the plastic stub that holds it into place.Once the locking tab clears the stub projection that holds the hard drive cage in place, the end still has to be lifted up till it clears the bottom of the laptop. There's simply no room within the laptop bay to pull the hard drive back and disengage from the mating connector. One the cage clears the laptop, it takes a bit of force to pull the hard drive out on as shallow an angle as possible.The first step in replacing the hard drive is removing the cage from the old drive, which is held in place with four screws. Make sure you note which way the cage goes on the old drive before you take it off, because it will need to be mounted on the new drive the same way, even though more than one orientation may be possible. You can see the corner of the new drive in the picture, in case you thought we only had one:-)Once the replacement hard drive is mounted in the cage (same brand in this instance, though it doesn't need to be), the whole assembly can be reinstalled in the laptop. Again, keep the drive on as shallow an angle as possible, ie, close to the bottom of the laptop, as you slide the pins into the connector. The close tolerances on the laptop bay usually make it impossible to mate the connector improperly.If you worry about prying the drive against the connector when depressing the end of the cage so the tab clears the locking ear, you can hold the top edge of the cage out as you pry the tab in, as I'm doing here. Laptop hard drives aren't terribly rugged, they're so light and slim that I hate putting any more mechanical stress on them than I have to. Replacing laptop hard drives is a bit nerve racking for people who haven't done it before, but as long as you don't use an unreasonable amount of force, it should work out fine.We replace the lid and use the long screw to reattach it to the bottom of the laptop. The emergency restore CD that comes with the laptop is used to reload all the software on the PC, but your data is gone unless you backed it up.Since the laptop hard drive we replaced in this example was a total brick, I figured I'd open it up (below) so you could take a look inside. The shiny circular thing is called a platter, on which the data is magnetically recorded and read by a read/write head on the end of the arm (currently in its park position away from the platter). The noise you here when your hard drive is operating is the arm swinging in and out over the surface of the platter, which spins under the read write head to provide access to all the usable locations on the drive.

How a battery laptop works

Battery cellCells are individual cylindrical compartments in a battery that produce power. As many as 12 cells are used in a notebook battery.
CapacityThis refers to the amount of energy a battery contains. The typical notebook battery has between 2,000 and 6,000 milliamp hours (mAh) of capacity. See milliamp hours.
Charge cycleThis describes the complete charge and discharge cycle of the battery. Fully draining the battery then recharging it is one charge cycle.
DegradationThe process by which the chemicals in a battery lose their ability to hold a full charge. See memory effect.
DischargeThis describes using the power stored in a battery by chemically depleting the charge.
ElectrolyteThis chemical carries electrons while the battery is being used.
Energy densityThis term describes how much energy a battery contains, based on its watt-hour capacity divided by its weight; many external batteries have between 100 and 200 watt-hours of energy.
Fuel cellThis refers to any of various devices that convert chemical energy directly into electrical energy. They are different from batteries because they use liquid fuel to produce electrical energy, whereas batteries use reversible chemical reactions.
Lithium-ion batteryThese batteries use lithium for the negative electrode and offer high energy density and the ability to undergo repeated charge cycles.
Lithium-ion-polymer batterySimilar to a lithium-ion battery, a lithium-ion-polymer battery uses a conductive plastic and is more malleable than traditional lithium-ion batteries. Lithium-ion polymer can be moulded into different shapes, which can be critically important to the makers of small devices, such as mobile phones.
Memory effect (a.k.a. memory degradation)Not to be confused with computer memory, this is the loss of the ability to fully recharge a battery, which happens over a long period of battery use.
Milliamp hourThis is the main battery capacity rating, equal to one-thousandth of an amp-hour, generally referred to by its acronym: mAh. The typical notebook battery has between 2,000 and 6,000 milliamp hours of capacity.
Negative electrodeThis is the conductive part of the battery to which electrons flow.
Nickel-cadmium batteryAlso known as NiCd, this is the original battery technology used in notebooks. In using cadmium as the negative electrode, these batteries have a relatively low energy density and suffer from memory effects.
Nickel-metal-hydride batteryBy removing the cadmium and using nickel hydride instead, these batteries are made to hold more energy, but they can't be recharged more than a few hundred times. They are generally referred to as NiMH.
Porous separatorThis permeable material or membrane separates the battery's two electrodes and allows current to flow from the positive to the negative electrode.
Positive electrodeThis is the conductive part of the battery; electrons flow away from it.
Rechargeable batteryThis is a battery that can be used repeatedly by adding power to it when the cells are drained. These batteries typically can go through a few hundred charge cycles before they start to lose the ability to hold a charge.
Watt-hourA watt-hour is a measurement of the amount of energy held in a battery that can power a one-watt device for one hour. Many external batteries have between 100 and 200 watt-hours of energy.

Get clearer audio chats on your laptop

Graeme Dollar, a Senior Product Manager for voice services at Yahoo!, has a fantastic trick for reducing annoying audio feedback during voice chats.
His tip is specific to MacBook Pro users with Skype, but it can be easily adapted to just about any laptop and audio conferencing service. The trick is to simply change the speaker balance so that the audio comes out as far away from the mic as possible:
To all you mac book pro users who use skype (and soon, Messenger) to make calls…
The microphone is located under the left speaker grille, and can contribute to horrible feedback during a call (the person on the other side hears himself coming out of the speaker on your machine, fedback into your mic).
I changed my speaker balance so that output was all to the right speaker, and the effect was fantastic. Conversations are in mono, but you can have a perfect conversation without requiring a headset.
Here’s how to change the speaker balance on both Mac and Windows:
Mac
1. In your Apple Menu, go to System Preferences and choose Sound.
2. Select the Output tab.
3. For Balance, move the slider all the way to the right if your mic is on the left. If your mic is on the right, move the slider to the left.

Windows
1. Double-click the speak icon on the bottom-right of the Windows Start Bar.
. In the window that appears, move the Master Volume slider all the way to the right if your mic is on the left. If your mic is on the right, move the slider to the left.
Once you’ve adjusted your speaker output, just start an audio chat with your favorite buddy and enjoy.

Buying Used Dell Laptops, PC's and Servers on eBay - How to be successful.

Two years ago I needed a way to refresh more PC's and Laptops at my company without spending more. New Dell laptops were great but expensive and over the years we had accumulated many Latitude C series parts. The C series ran from the CPX C600 C610 C400 and C640 models before their new D line of Latitude laptops were released. The docks, drives and many other parts are usable in any of these models so we decided to take advantage of this and purchase used Dell laptops. eBay was where we sourced these. Over the years I've learned some valuable things about buying these expensive items. Here are some tips and some recommendations of sellers I've found to be very reliable.
Know what you are buying.
Don't just go by the model and specs of the machine. I'm seeing two types of units out there. Those that are complete PC's sold as used units. Also refurbished units that have no serial number on the bottom or in the bios. These units can be had at very good prices and so far I've found them all to be in great condition. The problem is that without the serial you can't even get tech support from Dell and obviously there isn't a warranty. If you don't mind this from the right seller these are great. For my use at my company it just isn't worth the appearance of a model with no serial number. I'm passing on these for now.
Always pay using Pay Pal or some other service that lets you use a credit card.
Even when you use a credit card on Paypal your covered by the dispute and charge back protection provided by your credit card company. I've had two instances where the seller did not ship my laptop and I had to dispute the charge with my credit card company. In both cases I received a credit back from my company and had no trouble from Paypal. Before disputing open a formal case with Paypal as they require that before you do a charge back. I'm not sure what the consequences would be but better to appear as if you are trying to use their system.
Buying regularly? Try to form a relationship with a couple reputable sellers.
After doing business with a handful of sellers I trust I now completely bypass eBay. The sellers love the money they save on fees and I can often have them hunt down mint condition Latitude laptops. Some will even customize the laptop to your specs.
Check the sellers feedback.
Look to see that the seller regularly sells Dell equipment. This tells you two things. One that they are a reputable seller and have a history of people who bought the exact same item and were happy. The other thing is that if you see positive feedback regarding non-similar equipment you can assume that they will have no spare parts or service ability. If you see many sales of similar Dell equipment you can be sure that if you have a problem and notify them right away they will probably be able to fix your laptop.
Ask about warranty or warranty transfer assistance.
If you are lucky the unit you purchase will come with some warranty left from Dell. However Dell will not transfer the warranty into your name unless you have the original owners name and address. If you can find a seller willing to provide this you just struck gold! Note, this is not common at all. You can still get Dell to service an in warranty unit but they won't transfer the ownership to your name.
Buying Servers? Look for Dell refurbished units with a warranty.
I don't know how it works but there are many resellers of Dell Servers that are new or refurbished from Dell. These come with the Dell warranty and are transferable. When the server arrives its in the original Dell box still sealed up. The price can't be beat and I've never had a problem. My suspicion is that for those with the right connections, Dell will sell you volumes of over production and refurbished units far below pricing you'd see in their Dell Outlet site. http://www.scsistuff.com is a great vendor for this type of buy.

Dell Computer Corporation Recall of Latitude / Inspiron Laptop AC Adapters

Dell Computer Corporation Recall of Latitude / Inspiron Laptop AC Adapters
If you own one of the following models of Dell Latitude or Inspiron PC laptops you may want to check your AC Adapter part number. Dell is recalling 990,000 AC Adapters used on the following Laptop Models: Latitude CP, CPi, CPiA, CPtC, CPiR, CPxH, CPtV, CS, CSx, CPxJ, CPtS, C500, C510, C600, C610, C800, C810, V700, C-Dock and CPort
Inspiron: 2500, 2600, 3700, 3800, 4000, 4100, 4150, 5000, 5000e, 7500, 7550, 8000, 8100
The Dell AC Adapter recall is due to the possibility that the AC Adapter could overheat and start a fire or produce an electrical shock. The issue appears to be in the cord which is damaged at the connection to the AC Adapter from bending in regular use. Dell is requiring that the AC adapter be shipped back to ensure that it is no longer in use.
The AC Adapter Part Numbers affected are:
P/N 9364U P/N 7832D P/N 4983D
The Manufacturer must also be Delta Electronics and made in Thailand
I have many Dell AC adapters with the affected part #'s and are not made by Delta Electronics but made by ASTEC in China. Those AC Adapters are ok. If you want to verify this please call the 1-800 number at Dell to confirm your AC Adapter is safe. You will need to read them the last twelve numbers on the AC Adapter bar code label. The web site also has a form to enter this information and generate a request for a new Dell AC Adapter.
Owners of these AC Adapters can visit http://www.delladapterprogram.com or call 1-800-418-8590 to obtain a replacement AC Adapter
At my company we did have one of these smoke and start on fire. The FAQ on Dell's AC Adapter recall website states that it is a very small number of these Recall affected AC Adapters that have actually caught fire.